UK Bound: the days in between

Although the title might suggest some down time during my trip it is really all about an attempt to highlight some of the areas, sites and thoughts visited before they become solely a fleeting memory. We managed to pack in a lot between leaving Tintern and arriving in Tenby a few days later. Our goals were two castles and Porthcawl before Swansea where we would spend two days with a side trip to Hay-on-Wye and a visit to Mumbles. Did we make it?

Castles tend to look like unfriendly fortresses, Caerphilly was no exception. Of course that was one of the purposes for building them. Caerphilly Castle, built in 1268 by the English lord Gilbert de Clare (he was a greedy fellow with his castles). Twice destroyed by Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd (his name, or those of his descendants cropped in other sites we visited). What is it with destroying castles? However, within a year, staunch (perhaps stubborn or a poor loser.) fellow that he was, the same Englishman rebuilt Caerphilly to become the largest castle in Wales. In 1326 the English king Edward II hid out in the castle to escape his queen. Caerphilly was indeed a strong fortress.

As with so many castles Caerphilly fell into disrepair. In the 17th century the tower started to lean. The wooden statue of Marquess de Bute, the man who saved Caerphilly Castle from complete ruin in the 19th – 20th centuries, seems to be doing his best to hold the famous Leaning Tower in place. I did not make it anywhere near the statue, and it could be that it is protected from anyone getting too close. It is rather impressive upon seeing it from across the water.

Why does the tower lean? There is some dissent between local folklore and science. The tale is that it was damaged during battles between the roundheads and the cavaliers in the 17th c. (The English Civil War) Science says subsidence. Whatever happened it leans more than ten degrees, double that of the leaning tower of Pisa.

The Canadians are invading. I counted over two dozen goslings between four adults. Further up the way there were maybe thirty more adult waddle marching in a single line from the water to the main path where a man was feeding them. I am quite sure this was a daily ritual. Although we have geese this is not a sight I would see in Victoria!

Of course I took far more photos and selecting the best was extremely difficult as so many can tell a tale. Such as the more recent battle of restoration vs. leave as found. The former won. Most recently with plans for a £5m investment for Caerphilly, “to strengthen the site as a world-class heritage attraction by 2023.” (Cadw) I am undecided as to how I feel about that. Granted, extensive work had already been done to the site by the Marquess, some of which could do with a closer look as to accuracy and probably safety. I am far, far from being knowledgeable about castles, architecture and the history of each. I choose instead to enjoy each site I encounter. There were some interpretive areas, one room with an interesting angle to tell the tale of Edward II, his queen and others involved in deceit, affairs of the heart, politics, and dastardly deeds. Unfortunately none of my photos managed to capture even a glimpse of the aura I think the artist captured. More the fault of my ability than what was presented. Caerphilly is absolutely one of the castles in Wales a visitor should make the trip to visit.

And don’t forget to feed the dragons! This was an unexpected, fun end to our Caerphilly adventures. The story of a king turned dragon, who found his dragon lady love. Do they belong? Of course, they are Welsh dragons after all. Now permanent residents they will come out to play once in a while.

After spending far more time than we expected to we sadly turned our backs on Caerphilly. We had one more castle on this portion of our trip to visit plus making it to Porthcawl then Swansea before dark. Closing time was fast approaching at Castel Coch.

But first we needed lunch! Late as usual. Once fortified we made our way up the long, sloping hill to the drawbridge.

Castel Coch, fairy tale castle fit for a ‘princess’. We were utterly enchanted with what we found inside. Do you recall Gilbert de Clare and Marquess Bute? Despite centuries apart their architectural pursuits were once again entwined. When you have the money there is little that cannot be done. The towers were de Clare’s as part of a hunting fortress; everything else came about in the 19th c. using Bute’s money combined with William Burgess’ experienced eye for design and architecture. Although Burgess died before the rooms were completed his foundation left room for the artistic talents of others.

Bute’s wife even had hot and cold running water in her drawing room! We had to be content with facilities outside of the castle. And what a room!

The detail in the paintings of the flowers, birds and other animals are beautiful. The whole drawing room depicts various Aesop’s Fables, monkeys (one supposedly done in the image of Darwin as an insult to his views on the origin of mankind), and a variety of wonderful creatures. I was enamoured with the carved animals.

We were told that all of the birds painted on the side panels leading to the dome are native to the area (it might have been Great Britain) as are the florals on the walls.

These are panels in the drawing room dome. Not necessarily any depicting Darwin. I am not sure I would want to sleep with monkeys watching me and throwing down grapes in my dreams. I am somewhat afraid of monkeys.

An interesting note is that not only did deClare spend very little time at the site in the 12th c. but neither did Bute in the 19th c. after his architect-designer and friend died. The castle eventually fell into disuse, even after being purchased in the 1930s, before renewed interest around the 1960s brought about restoration and the fairy tale dwelling can once again hold our dreams. I could sleep in a bed with crystal bedposts but probably not the monkeys. We were ready fo a nap, and still had many miles to go. A fond farewell just before we were to be gently shown the door and the portcullis lowered ( no idea if it ever is) with our Sat Nav set for Swansea.

What happened to Porthcawl and Hay-on-Wye? Time was running out. We reset our plans to retrace our route the next day for Porthcawl, the main destination on my list, and Hay-on-Wye the following day.