Final Notes: transportation, communication, budget and…

These days travelling to the other side of the world is relatively simple to arrange, then take off. A quick look online to find the least expensive flight, book with a debit or credit card and hit send. Alright, that is how it is supposed to happen. It usually is that simple, until it is not. This post is about the airlines I liked and did not, baggage, (yes, even the emotional kind) bus and train travel, where to stay, or not, and how I reached across the waters for help, or I was reached. All of my bookings were started with, just not necessarily completed through them.

I love taking the ferry from Swartz Bay (outside Victoria, BC) to Twassassen, a fabulous way to relax, enjoy the best, natural views in the world, and enter the madness of the rest of humankind. Then onward by bus and Skylink (the only way to travel any cheaper would be to walk or bike – still have to pay for the ferry) to the YVR Airport – which, by the way, was named the best international airport in the world by CAPA Centre for Aviation! I liked that this announcement was in the news the day I returned home.

Xiamen Air has only been flying out of Vancouver to China for maybe a year, which means it is not yet a popular choice, and that means the flights are not full. I had two seats to myself all the way to Xiamen. Another weather delay in Xiamen, then on our way to Shanghai. My only complaint was how disorganized staff were when it came to letting passengers know about the weather delay.

The return flight was a dream once I was aboard a plane. Checking in was not. I had to wait until four hours before departure, I was an agonizing 40 minutes early. The gate was in a separate room from all the others with no washroom. That meant handing over the boarding pass, leaving and trekking down the hall. There was also a storm brewing. Everyone was on tenterhooks worrying if we would leave on time. We did not. Fortunately, once on the plane the crew were great and kept everyone comfortable. I promptly fell asleep.

Once in Xiamen, my one bag already checked through to Vancouver, I joined the massive crush of people at security, Immigration, and Customs. A lengthy layover despite having been delayed in Shanghai, but through to the gate fairly quickly. One stupid couple thought they were being clever by having ‘her’ go through first, pull out her phone then take a photo of ‘him’ at the Immigration (or maybe it was Customs) counter. She was caught, chastised, and lucky to be told to go on her way. I was behind them. Never mess around at security, Customs or Immigration.

I roamed around the departure area, narrowly missing the gate change, then happily (me, happy on a plane and not yet drugged – go figure) boarded. My happiness became nearly giddy when the pilot affirmed all aboard and there was not anyone sitting in my row! Three seats to myself – I have never had that on a plane. A meal was served, water made readily available (read on dear passengers), I had blankets galore, three pillows and comfortable seats. An uneventful flight, I actually slept three to four hours without being disturbed. Breakfast was the only disappointment, very Chinese. Thank goodness congee was not included. Xiamen Air is on my radar for future travel.

China Eastern Airlines: a sudden change of plans meant I had to book a flight from Kunming, China to Chiang Mai, Thailand. My debit visa would not work despite making the reservation through Fortunately my daughter, already in Thailand, has a credit card and offered to pay for my flight as a gift. Kunming has a beautiful airport. The photos I found do not do it justice. Inside and out, the architecture makes you want to soar. Watch out Vancouver. Checking in was easy, the flight did have some turbulence that freaked me out, the crew were great.

Thai Airlines: Chiang Rai to Phuket. Another problem with booking online, this time not even the credit card worked. Something to do with too close to departure. We did manage to retain the booking, called the airline office in Chiang Rai, provided all the pertinent information and were booked. Old style sometimes works best. All we had to do was be ready to provide proof of credit card with passport – ended up being not necessary. I did wonder if that means there is more credit card scamming than cardholders are aware of.

We arrived with lots of time to spare, I tend to worry about travel even if it is domestic. Very easy check-in, and, oh so lovely, we were offered goodies, coffee and tea! This was solely for Thai Air passengers. I have very little recollection of the rest of the flight, my daughter and I had an empty seat between us, then she changed to a row that was completely empty. A comfortable trip.

Thai Smile: Phuket to Bangkok. A less expensive offshoot of Thai Air, no tea and coffee. I had to wait an hour to check in whereas my daughter, on a different airline, was able to check in immediately despite her flight leaving after mine. I mentioned earlier how much I love taking the ferry from Vancouver Island, I was far from enamoured with the boat from Phi Phi Don to Phuket, then a mini-van to the airport.

We were both unwell, I thought it was seasickness for me, but no, we had the nasty bug someone brought to Phi Phi. I still do not know how my daughter managed other than through my plying her with Gravol and cajoling her to just get through security. By the time I arrived in Phuket I was not smiling. At the airport we found a place to hide and nap for a couple of hours. Some lovely cleaning ladies helped me out when I was at my worse – throwing up into a bag of rubbish seemed better than all over the floor. One woman rubbed my back, another gave me paper towels, another walked me back to my daughter and even checked up on us a couple of times.

The crew on Thai Smile had left me a nice little paper carry bag with a bottle of water, wet wipe and sandwich while I slept. I liked that. Ate the sandwich the next day.

Air Asia: Bangkok to Shanghai. Never, ever again. Granted their fares are low, so much so that everything else is extra. Including booking with a credit card; which, by the way, is about the only way to book with them! When I had booked this flight a couple of weeks earlier my daughter, who had flown with them before, asked me if I had pre-booked my baggage. Of course I had no idea what she meant. No attempt to make a change was possible, not from China, Thailand, or Canada. I finally said I would deal with it at the airport and set aside about the equivalent of 30CAD to cover any possible possible charge for my backpack. All other THB was exchanged for RMB.

The following is why I arrive early at airports. Security check to enter the airport, more security before being allowed to go to the check-in counter. Second in line for checking in, after being informed we were in the wrong place. More lines opened up, no longer second in line -I was beginning to growl. Finally my turn, still second in my line, the person ahead of me took about 15 minutes – he was, at the time, the only other foreigner in any of the lines.

My turn, my passport checked, long pause, it was peered at, another agent spoken to, they both peered at me, then the computer started spitting out the boarding and baggage passes. My backpack weighed in between 8 – 9kg. Papers were placed on the counter along with my passport, I was home free…..Nope.

After everything was processed I was informed I had to pay over 1800THB, about 70CAD, for my bag. I was horrified. I explained the problem with my attempts over the past two weeks, and I did not have that much in THB. Of course they suggested a credit card. They would not accept my daughter giving her card information over the phone, although they would have accepted it if she caught a taxi to come in person. An hour away. Then I was told I could shift stuff from my backpack to my carry on despite all the signs saying ONE CARRY ON ONLY! Except I had a Swiss Army knife wrapped up inside one of my shoes, inside a shoe bag. Their suggestion was to “throw it”. Yelling at people in Thailand goes nowhere, so I burst into tears. The knife was my mother’s and always travels with me. They lowered the amount to 815THB – despite my saying I only had just over 500. Which was true, because they could not take CNY. Exchange that they said. Which meant leaving the secure area. The knife will stay at home from now on.

By this time I was furious and worried I would miss my flight. I left, tried one bank card, not successful, then the other – thank goodness it worked. I stashed my unwanted THB except for the 800, went through security again, had all my passes redone, went to another desk to pay my pound of flesh, collected my passes and stomped off for security, immigration and customs. I was in foul mood.

When I discovered the gate was a large holding room without a washroom I was not surprised. Yet another sign Air Asia will do anything to save a dollar. The flight was delayed due to stormy weather – this time thunder and lightening. Everyone was wound up.

By the time we boarded it was past bedtime for everyone. This time I had to share a row with two other passengers until one of them moved. I slept most of the trip. Until I was thirsty. I had not filled my water bottle after security as there not any places near to the gate. Final disgusting insult to passengers. An 8oz, bottle of water was 50THB! (It might have been 80THB) I paid it, not happily, the airline is basically hijacking passengers. I will never travel on Air Asia again. There is no saving after the extortion for baggage, food and water. I am only grateful we were not stuck on the plane waiting to take off – they probably charge for airsickness bags.
Trains and buses. I found both of these modes of transportation easy to buy tickets for in both countries, despite my worry for my first train trip on National Day. Do not let lack of language skills deter travel plans. Instructions can be written down or use a mobile device to take a photo of a map and route. There is usually someone willing to help, or assistants at many stations. In Chiang Mai there are Tourist Police at the bus stations, and I assume, train stations who can provide help. Make it an adventure.
Accommodation varied from not so great to wonderful, with prices, other than the one upscale place in Chiang Mai, roughly the same. Once averaged out I paid 37CAD per night. Sharing of course cuts the price down, as does staying in dorms – which I do not ever plan to do. Only once did I want to cancel after arriving, People’s Square Youth Hostel was smelly and mouldy, but that was the end of my trip and in the area I am familiar with as well as being close to the metro and everywhere else I wanted to visit.
Communication. In China be prepared for far less access to the internet than usual. Even with VPN. In Thailand access at airports was frustrating, your phone number is necessary for access information to be sent as a text – the catch is that it seems only a Thai number works. On Phi Phi Don everywhere has wifi, many of they cafes have the codes on their receipt. Or, take a photo – I learned this in Kunming, beats running back and forth when memory fails.

I finally decided I did not need Facebook as I had What’sApp and eventually paid for a package for international calls and texts on my mobile phone. Unfortunately actual internet service can be extremely spotty depending where you are, just like at home. I always tell family I will let someone know where I am, and they usually know which city I am in as well as my accommodation. Let family know these things when possible. With modern technology there is no excuse not to. Also less worry. Even if you are running away.

Home….time to plan my next adventure.

After a week jet lag was finally gone, my cat loved me again and I started to think what to pack for another adventure. For now, winter clothes for a one month stay in Ontario. Perhaps a few days in Quebec Ciry or New York. Very different weather wise – winter; culture – Canadian, eh; visiting family – Christmas. Then who knows? Tibet, North Korea, more of China, are all on my list. Australia has been added now that my youngest is there. The latter will be only if we can come to an agreement about travelling and staying together.

Show Me the Money

Did I go over my budget? Yes. Even with my youngest paying for my flight from Kunming to Chiang Mai. There were extra flights, and other modes of transportation while I was in Thailand. The south of Thailand is expensive, paying an astronomical fee for my very light bag added to going over, as did leaving Jiuzhaigou a day early. I could have told my daughter I would take her up on her offer to pay for half of my ‘booze cruise’, but I had so much fun and I did have two monetary gifts from two of her sisters to do something special – I do not think any of us considered jumping into the ocean from the back of a speedboat would be my choice.

I believe I balanced out at 100CAD per day in Kunming, well worth every fen (1/6th of a penny)

The strangest cost was 2CNY for using a squat toilet in a private home. Better than a 1CNY facility any day.

It was difficult trying to keep track of money in Thailand because my daughter and I kept taking turns to pay for things. My first day I probably spent 1000THB, under 40CAD. I did not have to pay for the room. I paid for our cooking lesson and she paid for our nice hotel. However, by the time we made it to Koh Phi Phi, and were there our second night, I had difficulty getting a handle on this island of wanton spending. I did manage to snag a breakfast of fish congee and teepee fried, churro style, bread for 60THB, then spent far too much for coffee. Shame on me as I still had coffee in my room. I made up for that by eating most of my daughter’s breakfast (my lunchtime), we did not know she was getting sick other than feeling worn out.

Two more mornings and I had found sticky rice with chicken very near us, for the cheap price of 30THB. I always say eat where the locals eat, preferably where it is busy. I had a beachside view, watched local children playing in the water, boats being readied for the tourists and even had a young cat try to steal my breakfast. He did not get anywhere near it.

I did have to take money out of my bank account while in Bangkok; after being sick we were not up to going far so ate at the hostel. I did not see much of Bangkok, favouring photos from the rooftop restaurant. Perhaps another trip.

Final tally, perhaps 200-300CAD over my budget. That is satisfactory, not even surprising. All I have to do now is decide if I should budget differently for future trips or try to keep within my 3000CAD for a month of travel – including airfare. I am even thinking I might have to stay in dorms. Ah, the lengths we go to for travel.

Last Days in Shanghai

Another daughter, at home looking after my cat, asked me if I had any plans for my last two days in Shanghai. My first response was find breakfast and coffee but otherwise I did not have anything planned. I had arrived at my hostel by 7:30AM. Although not happy with the room at least I had one that early in the morning. Which had me thinking Maybe I should do something for my last days. First, coffee. The lounge was open, I cheated and bought a cafe latte – time to deplete my CNY. Then to the streets for breakfast, always some great choices, and I was only a block away from my previous hostel (now clad in bamboo and mesh along with the rest of the block – still open though) so I knew where to go.

Then a bit of a wander, over the next two days I found a park I had not been aware of, walked up to Nanjing Lu in an attempt to find Jing’an Temple, took the subway to an Apple Store, despite hearing Apple is not in China, (there are at least three stores within walking/subway distance of where I was staying) to find out why my phone was not charging.Typical Chinese store though, there was rain dripping through the ceiling, onto one of the tables where people were sitting with their devices. Hurray, only needed a new cord, charged it long enough to visit some old haunts.


I managed to get turned around and headed towards Yu Yuan, a tourist Mecca I always try to avoid. Once I was headed in the right direction, to a favoured Starbucks at Huai Hai Lu and Shaanxi Lu, many blocks away, I took my time to appreciate the architecture from 100 years or so ago that is still standing – not too many changes since my last time in Shanghai – window shopping, most items beyond my means, and enjoying a light, misty rain. Of course I stopped for a coffee, and shared a pretzel type treat with my travel companions. I have never seen these anywhere else.


Then onto Xinle Lu where I hoped to check out three places I often visited when living in Shanghai. First, Frangipani, a fabulous salon for manicures and pedicures. While still at home I had checked online if they were still in business. All I found were men asking, “watch, your, bag?”, this was not a question nor a statement to take care. When living in Shanghai, more than any other city, the restrain of ‘watch, bag, DVD’ was common on Huai Hai Lu until the knock off market was shut down, and, it seems, street sellers forced to move on. Of course DVDs are no longer hawked, I have no idea what ‘your’ meant.

Frangipani did not seem to exist. On to an eatery loved by locals and foreigners for the past 20 years or more. I was looking forward to a plate of their white shrimp with dragonwell tea. Drats, closed. A look in the window seemed to indicate they are still in business. My final destination, was to Dragonfly Massage, the best massage parlour in all of Shanghai. At one time there was a Frangipani next door – not anymore. Dragonfly is still there, I checked out their menu, calculated my RMB, then bid a sad zai jian (farewell). I did not want to withdraw more money from an ATM. All I spent that day was money for my phone cord, coffee and street food and a questionable dinner at the hostel. I still had not managed to find the temple.


Breakfast was an extremely thin, giant crepe, minus the French fluffiness, an egg broken, then scrambled on the crepe while it still cooked, topped with green onion, a minced vegetable that might have been dried, or lightly pickled, onion. The crepe was then folded in half, a sauce spread, a piece of deep fried bread (like a churro) placed atop, before the whole thing was rolled up, cut in half and bagged. I also found some tea eggs (cha dan). Heaven in street food. I eventually added a small carton of yogurt, all I needed was coffee.


The coffee had to wait. I headed to the Bund via East Nanjing Lu, a large section of which is a walking street, usually crammed full of shoppers carrying high end purchases or window shopping. Get there early to see the street quietly waking up with fan dancers working on routines, grandparents playing with the one grandchild (how do four grandparents share one grandchild?), delivery trucks/ vans/motorbikes/ and bikes, businesses beginning to open with the the raising of steel doors and sleepy staff unlocking doors. (In many places staff still sleep onsite – I do not if that is the case with large companies). It all made the stroll to the Bund relaxing.


The two tallest towers across the Huangpu River were shrouded in grey clouds, appearing like the tops of trees lopped off. The Fairmont Peace Hotel on my side of the river looks as grand as ever, once again, I made a promise to return for tea. If I can do high tea at the Empress every ten years then I can do tea in Shanghai -way overdue, I have never had tea at the Peace Hotel. I loved that I could look down East Nanjing Lu without my view of the Pearl Tower being marred by vehicle or human traffic. A rarity.


On my way back to the hostel I finally stopped for coffee at a KFC – passable. I still had not decided if should attempt finding Jing’an Temple. I was working at spending my last 100CNY, not including my room deposit. The inclement weather made my decision for me. I returned to the hostel, a walk in the rain was a way to prepare for home. It was silly I could not work my way to the temple, I had been there only four weeks earlier! A wonderful excuse to return to Shanghai.

My bags were packed, I was ready to go. Home was on the horizon.